SURREY COUNTY LIBRARY140 HIGH STREET, ESHER
This book should be returned to the Branch from which it was borrowed by the latest date entered below: if not, fines will be charged. If the book comes into contact with any notifiable infectious disease you should follow the instructions of the Medical Officer and notify the Librarian.
Notifiable Infectious Diseases?! And we've been breathing them in? Head for the hills. Nobody is safe.
View Larger Map
Almost the first thing of importance on the way is the Proof House of the Worshipful Company of Gunmakers. The Company was established in 1637; unlike other livery companies of the City, this was always situated outside the City walls, probably because of the noise of its 'proof' procedures. (Proofing was the testing of the safety of gun barrels.) The company acquired the property in a 'physic' garden in Whitechapel in 1675, which is now 46-50 Commercial Road. The original Proof House was damaged by explosions and rebuilt after 1757.1
![]() |
| Gunmakers' Company Proof House |
| Steel's Lane Health Centre, by Tom Bastin, on Flickr. |
It is architecturally notable for its windows with terracotta mullions and canted bays at either end. A chapel with trefoil-headed windows survives at the rear.3, 4 Above the main entrance to the clinic is a plasterwork figure with a cross. There is also a bright green clock with Roman face and gilt-edged, on which appears the legend 'East End Maternity Hospital'.
![]() |
| Victor McLaglen and Cary Grant in Gunga Din. |
Next! I saw a blue plaque celebrating Victor Andrew de Bier McLaglen (1886-1959), a UK-born boxer and Hollywood actor. I hadn't heard of him, but it appears that he won an Academy Award in 1935 for the film The Informer (directed by John Ford). Here he is with Cary Grant in Gunga Din.
| Troxy Art Deco Cinema, by Maggie Jones, on Flickr. |
At 490 Commercial Road is a large Art Deco edifice called Troxy. It was designed by George Coles and opened as a cinema in 1933, seating 3520 people. It was built on the site of an old brewery; it was fashionable and luxurious and showed the best films. It even had an organ in the orchestral pit that would play the latest tunes during the interval. The cinema operated from its first film (King Kong) to its last (The Siege of Sydney Street) for 27 years. Later on, it served as a rehearsal space for the Royal Opera House and as a bingo centre. Today it's been restored to its Art Deco glory and serves as a multipurpose venue.
As I approached Limehouse Station, I noticed a set of row houses on White Horse Road. This street is quite old: it was till modern times the only northerly route from the Thames through the East End. The area, historically, used to be the hamlet of Ratcliff. Until the 19th century, it appears that there were several large houses with spacious gardens, in which lived captains and others related to the shipping industry.5 The current terraces are not in any way distinctive, and the street has little else to recommend itself (other than a little graveyard at the corner with Salmon Lane - which I didn't walk up to), so I shall linger here no longer.
A problem with Commercial road is that it is, in fact, very commercial, and not pretty at all. There are many properties derelict, businesses shuttered, squats. It might have been more interesting to walk around the squares and residential parts of the East End and Limehouse. I was in a hurry, however, and continued to propagate rectilinearly.
The next notable building is The Passmore Edwards Limehouse District Public Library. It is closed and derelict. It was founded in 1900 by Passmore Edwards, a newspaperman and philanthropist,6 who also created several other buildings to succour the East End. The library closed in 2003, was sold to a restaurant company,7, 8 and has still not been put to any use.
![]() |
| Limehouse Town Hall in 1937 |
![]() |
| St Anne's Limehouse, painted by Noel Gibson (via Spitalfields Life). |
The clock in the tower is still the highest church clock in London, had the first illuminated clock face in the country, and its elevation enabled it to be seen by the thousands of ships which moored every day in the surrounding docks.11The Star of the East pub is the penultimate building on my walk: it has a a couple of gas street lamps in front of it. I don't know if these are still lit or not. The pub was run by the Baxter family for years.12
| The Star of the East pub, by Ewan Munro, on Flickr. |
Across the pub is the British and Foreign Sailors' Hostel - yet another charitable construction by that worthy Passmore Edwards - which opened in 1901.15 This was recognised for the quality of the accommodations provided to sailors from across the British Empire. It is an Edwardian building, Art Nouveau in spirit, a welcoming gateway in form, and fluently carved with maritime symbols,16 including Britannia as a ship's figurehead. There are also various inscriptions, some faded more than others. You can see a bunch of pictures of the building and its features on Maggie Jones' Flickr set.17 Over the years, the building has had many popular names: Sailors' Palace, Jack's Palace, Mariners' Hotel...
At this point, I had to leave Commercial Road and get onto the West India Dock Road, and as I had already dawdled a bit and was running late for my meeting, I jumped onto a bus.
Other interesting sights that I missed:
The George Tavern.
The Original Chinatown: most of it was demolished following rioting and anti-Chinese agitation in the 1930s. To be fair, much of it was spread across Limehouse, and few traces remain on the Commercial road itself.
References
- Street Directory of the Commercial Road, south side, 1921.
- Congregation of Jacob Synagogue, by David Brandes.
- Bridget Cherry, Charles O'Brien and Nikolaus Pevsner (2005). London 5: East. p. 526.
- East End Maternity Hospital, on the Lost Hospitals of London website.
- Sidney Maddocks (June 1935), 'White Horse Street', in The Copartnership Herald, vol V, no. 52.
- Dean Evans (February 2013), 'Passmore Edwards in the East End', Spitalfields Life.
- Poplar Conservatives, 'Mayor Rahman Sells Off Limehouse Library - What Next?', July 2012.
- Passmore Edwards Centennial: Libraries.
- Kieran (Sep 2011), 'Limehouse Town Hall', Secret London.
- St Anne's Limehouse: History.
- Hugo Marchant (2012), 'St Anne's Church Limehouse', in his website I'm visiting London.
- Eric Pemberton's Postcards - Limehouse, on the Isle of Dogs Life blog.
- Star of the East pub, Limehouse, listing in Pubshistory.com
- Bridget Cherry, Charles O'Brien and Nikolaus Pevsner (2005). London 5: East. p. 79.
- Sailors' Place, on Exploring East London's website.
- Bridget Cherry, Charles O'Brien and Nikolaus Pevsner (2005). London 5: East. p. 77.
- Maggie Jones, Edwardian Buildings in London 1902-1910.
Animal sex can be smutty, which allows us to segue into Alan Bennett's twofer, titled Smut: Two Unseemly Stories. Bennett has an unjudgmental touch with much sympathy for his characters, and he wields it lightly here. In one story, a widow joins a local teaching hospital as a diagnostic aid; the professor is attracted to her; the students think her 'cool' because she has allowed her bedsit tenants to perform sex acts in her presence in lieu of rent. Bennett explores sexual awakening in middle age: the widow is impressed by the versatility and energy of the young tenants and recalls that she had never been quite as enthusiastic with her husband. Although she doesn't appear to be much aroused by what she sees, she veers between heightened interest and indifference, and her main concern remains 'what will other people think if they knew?' In the other story, a gay man with an overbearing mother and a distant father marries a woman he considers silly. The dynamics in the family are in constant flux, and everyone's imperative to maintain their secrets and superficial relationships provides the humour and pathos in the tale.
On the one hand, there are families that successfully hide their loves from each other, and on the other, there are entire societies that keep an aggressive, claustrophobic eye on everyone. The resulting atmosphere of suspicion and poison, parochiality and patriarchy, love and desire, is sparely described in Wajdi Ahdal's A Land without Jasmine. Set in Yemen, a lovely girl is an object of barely suppressed lust by nearly all the men she encounters. Her neighbours, local shopkeepers, her professors, all assume that she wants to seduce them. Polite smiles are taken as invitations. No matter how demurely she conducts herself, she stirs loins. The girl disappears one day, the police get involved, and the story lurches from one self-serving point of view to another. This is a furious, explicit polemic against the systematic brutalisation of women in traditional Arab society; small wonder that books like these forced Ahdal to leave the country to save his life. He is back in Yemen now, but who knows whether his much-needed voice has the audience it deserves?
And finally we have the frankly peculiar Story of the Eye, by Georges Bataille. Reading it reminded me of Guillaume Apollinaire's nutty, frenetic and surreal Les Onze Mille Verges: Or, the Amorous Adventures of Prince Mony Vibescu, a bonkfest that is too funny to be erotic. (Oh, and it could have been in my sub-200-page read list, except I've read it already.) But where Apollinaire was light-hearted, Bataille is obsessive. Geometrically unfeasible contortions abound in this debut novel, which has far too many multiple orgasms to have any resemblance to reality. (Or, perhaps, I've just led a very sheltered existence.) Roland Barthes' textual analysis led to hidden meaning and much philosophising - so why is the book promoted as erotica? Besides the obvious intersection between sex, murder, madness and religion, what does it offer? It might have been avant-garde when it first appeared in 1928, but today it feels forced and pedestrian. I'm baffled, baffled, I tell you.
(For some utterly bizarre reason I can't fathom, several of the books I've got from the library as part of my exploration of the sub-200-page range deal with sex. And I'm only up to the letter B! As you see above, we have an Ahdal, a Bataille, a Bennett, and a Boffa. Were it not for the Ahdal, I'd have given this blog the title of Birds and Bs.)
| Frida Kahlo in Diego Rivera's mural, to the right of the skeleton. |
[Watch the dancing eyebrows around 2:08]
Jack Black can make a wave with his eyebrows, I said to the boy.
1. Am positive a lamb leg will make things loads better: Shawshank Redemption
2. Jesus’s Granddad: Godfather
3. Mother Theresa, Hitler and John Merrick: The good. The bad, the ugly
4. Jarvis Cocker isn’t real: Pulp Fiction
5. Batman sees no moon or stars: Dark Knight
6. Nice guys: Goodfellas
7. A white Spanish house: Casablanca
8. Join for a barney: Fight Club
9. They stole Noah’s sat nav: Raiders of the Lost Ark
10. Not this lot in the lineup again! The Usual Suspects
11. Rectangular numbers: The Matrix
12. I can’t hear the baaas: Silence of the Lambs
13. This helps a community member walk: Citizen Kane
14. Keep Malibu and Santa Monica secret: LA Confidential
15. Canines playing in the water supply: Reservoir Dogs
16. Return to tomorrow: Back to the Future
17. Wet karaoke: Singing in the Rain
18. Bannister was an environmentalist: The Green Mile
19. Contender, Are you ready? Gladiator
20. Blindfolded and handcuffed underwater and got out, wow: The Great Escape
21. Expiring isn’t easy: Die Hard
22. Lottery win for poor Lassie: Slumdog Millionaire
23. A regal roar: Lion King
24. An expensive offspring: Million Dollar Baby
25. Blown away my dear: Gone With the Wind
26. There’s the 2184214 to Paddington: Trainspotting
27. It will have cost this toy boy at least £9k a year: The Graduate
28. Cloughie’s story: Life of Brian
29. Get me out of this womb or else! Bourne Ultimatum
30. I’m looking for one that leaves it all to me: Good Will Hunting
31. The story of Harry S.? The Truman Show
32. Filthy gyrating: Dirty Dancing
33. An expensive digit: Goldfinger
34. Don’t show him red…..too late: Raging Bull
35. I do, I do, I do, I do…..so sad: Four Weddings and a Funeral
36. The Queen’s one who needs treatment: The English Patient
37. There’s at least a couple decent chaps: A Few Good Men
38. Satan’s lawyer: Devil's Advocate
39. Don’t even have a hint: Clueless
40. Mind if I butt in young lady: Girl, Interrupted
41. Insomnia in Washington: Sleepless in Seattle
42. It’s the end of the world: Armageddon
43. The King's Wife rules over dry lands: Priscilla, Queen of the Desert
44. Indian junior keeps it beating to stay alive: Braveheart
45. He may be a predator but he's such a nice man: Deer Hunter
46. They just upped and left: The Departed
47. Tee it high and she will bloom, but she's no English rose: Driving Miss Daisy
48. 23.5 miles to bring Frank and us together: The French Connection
49. Rented bacon: Hamlet
50. Painful storage: The Hurt Locker
51. Knight of the Crop Landings: Lord of the Rings
52. He's here all year long - winter spring summer or fall: A Man for all Seasons
53. On the cusp of tomorrow the Indian's foe arrives: Midnight Cowboy
54. The wife doesn't believe it was arson: Mrs Doubtfire
55. Stateless for geriatric dudes: No Country For Old Men
56. Swiss elevators rock from side to side: Schindler's List
57. Amorous Bard: Shakespeare in Love
58. Friendly Party Animal connects over WiFi: The Social Network
59. A Creepy crawly male friend ....... as well: Spiderman 2
60. It's a contracted affection ... even fondness: Terms of Endearment
61. A prostitute's target meets the bootmaker: Tom Jones
62. Read the book on Ali G's home turf: West Side Story
63. Addition for those that enjoy the sun on the back: Some Like It Hot
64. Route to Hades: Road to Perdition
65. Uncle's son is related to Mr Jones ... : My Cousin Vinny
66. Insurrection for coconut candy: Mutiny on the Bounty
67. William II brings a regal finality north of Hadrian's Wall: The Last King of Scotland
- Am positive a lamb leg will make things loads better.
- Jesus’s Granddad.
- Mother Theresa, Hitler and John Merrick.
- Jarvis Cocker isn’t real.
- Batman sees no moon or stars.
- Nice guys.
- A white Spanish house.
- Join for a barney.
- They stole Noah’s sat nav.
- Not this lot in the lineup again!
- Rectangular numbers.
- I can’t hear the baaas.
- This helps a community member walk.
- Keep Malibu and Santa Monica secret.
- Canines playing in the water supply.
- Return to tomorrow.
- Wet karaoke.
- Bannister was an environmentalist.
- Contender, Are you ready?
- Blindfolded and handcuffed underwater and got out, wow.
- Expiring isn’t easy.
- Lottery win for poor Lassie.
- A regal roar.
- An expensive offspring.
- Blown away my dear.
- There’s the 2184214 to Paddington.
- It will have cost this toy boy at least £9k a year
- Cloughie’s story.
- Get me out of this womb or else!
- I’m looking for one that leaves it all to me.
- The story of Harry S.?
- Filthy gyrating.
- An expensive digit.
- Don’t show him red…..too late.
- I do, I do, I do, I do…..so sad.
- The Queen’s one who needs treatment.
- There’s at least a couple decent chaps.
- Satan’s lawyer.
- Don’t even have a hint.
- Mind if I butt in young lady.
- Insomnia in Washington.
- It’s the end of the world.
- The Kings Wife rules over dry lands.
- Indian junior keeps it beating to stay alive.
- He may be a predator but he's such a nice man.
- They just upped and left.
- Tee it high and she will bloom, but she's no English rose.
- 23.5 miles to bring Frank and us together.
- Rented bacon.
- Painful storage.
- Knight of the Crop Landings.
- He's here all year long - winter spring summer or fall.
- On the cusp of tomorrow the Indian's foe arrives.
- The wife doesn't believe it was arson.
- Stateless for geriatric dudes.
- Swiss elevators rock from side to side.
- Amorous Bard.
- Friendly Party Animal connects over WiFi.
- A Creepy crawly male friend ....... as well.
- It a contracted affection ... even fondness.
- A prostitutes target meets the bootmaker.
- Read the book on Ali G's home turf.
- Addition for those that enjoy the sun on the back.
- Route to Hades.
- Uncle's son is related to Mr Jones ....
- Insurrection for coconut candy.
- William II brings a regal finality north of Hadrians Wall.
The location of the terrorist attack of August 1980 was significant. Bologna, a rich and intellectual town, has often been called ‘Red Bologna’ for its reputation as a centre of leftist politics. And today this politically radical city has inspired a young female author to write a crime novel that profiles the rise of sexual violence against women.
In 2010, Barbara Baraldi’s The Girl with the Crystal Eyes introduced a new character into the Italian crime novel – the female vigilante. “[It] originated from a scene I had in my mind of a woman who killed,” says Baraldi, “who killed a man but more than one man, and therefore there arises an important question - ‘what in this day and age brings a woman to kill someone?’”
She removes her magic wand from the top of her hold-up stockings and caresses his throat. He hasn’t time to scream. The artery in his neck has been sliced open with a small bronze razor that looks like a prop from some old film. The blood sprays everywhere, staining the filthy walls.
It covers her.
It colours her.
“In Italy, very often sex crimes remain unpunished,” says Baraldi, “in the sense that men are released immediately, and therefore I thought about creating this provocative character of a woman vigilante who roams the city of Bologna at night which was considered once a calm city, a university city; but in reality it hides a dark side. And this vigilante dresses provocatively and when she is attacked, she kills. She only kills men with bad intentions.
“Certainly current stories in the news affect my novel because when I wrote it, there was an explosion in crimes – almost all of a sexual nature. I remember the most serious one, however, was treated quite lightly: a girl in broad daylight at the bus stop was dragged into the nearest park and raped. So in broad daylight, a young student… I mean, I was very angry when faced with all these things.”
They start laughing.
Crack.
Crack.
Two pistol shots.
Two bodies lying on their backs. The blood of one merges with the blood of the other in a macabre dance of bodily fluids.
Baraldi’s writing has a cinematic quality to it that readers can quickly relate to at once. She employs the literary equivalent of fast cutting and cutting between scenes to dramatic effect. There is a minimum of exposition, a minimum of explanation, as though she dares the reader to keep up with her. The reader may struggle initially, but it will be worth it in the end. Baraldi is of the generation where film has informed her writing as much as anything she has read.
She found her horror writing style from literary classics familiar to British readers. “Lately I have been dubbed an exponent of new Italian Goth,” says Baraldi. “I grew up with romanticism, and with mystery, and I’m passionate about Mary Shelley, and the atmosphere of Dracula.”
“When I was a child,” she continues, “I read fairy tales. What struck me was the fact that these were actually rather violent fairy tales being told: the Wicked Witch, or Bluebeard who hanged his wives in a room you could not enter without staining the key with blood.”
She takes the hairpin from her hair and drives it into his eye, punching through to the brain.
Barbara Baraldi has to make her way in a society that is not entirely propitious to women. There were several avenues of protest open to her, and she chose a rebellious, punkish mode. She has attracted a younger readership, one that is not easily shocked or squeamish. She is one among several female Italian crime writers, a set of women who do not write cosy novels of the Miss Marple genre. The books of the new Italian women are bloody and edgy, and a wonderful opposition to their contemporary male counterparts.
[From BBC Four’s Italian Noir – The Story of Italian Crime Fiction.]
Massimo Carlotto’s first-hand experiences of Italy’s violent underworld has heralded a new wave of Italian writers who base their novels on real characters. From the other side of the law, a top Roman judge has dipped into his casebook to write an explosive novel set in the Italian capital, about the city’s notorious gangsters.
Giancarlo de Cataldo’s debut novel, Romanzo Criminale, was inspired by his work as an investigative magistrate in Rome, a role that took him both to crime scenes and prisons. Writers long for the sort of access he has, he says. If one is talented as a writer and has inside knowledge, it is a crime not to put it to use. He based his novel on a real street gang, the Banda della Magliana, a suburban gang that became a real criminal power in the city, “collecting money and imposing a kind of law as if the Mafia had for the first time, taken place in Rome.”
“I first met one of those people from the gang,” said de Cataldo, “he was a repented, he was under protection of justice, but those judges didn’t believe him, so he was set free and then murdered. The second chance was working in a trial against some of the members of these gangs, the survivors, because many of them were dead. They were real criminals, but they were old style criminals at the same time.” Set over a period of a decade, de Cataldo imagines that these people were involved in the darkest parts of the Years of Lead, a time that continues to intrigue Italians to this day.
One of the achievements of Romanzo Criminale is to fold in the lives of real people into the events de Cataldo describes in a responsible way. In 2005, a cinematic treatment with hip characters was released, dubbed the Italian Goodfellas. A pivotal moment in the film deftly flicks between real newsreel coverage of the kidnapping of Aldo Moro and the action of the book, reflecting the twin focus of the book.
De Cataldo also explores the bloodiest event from the Years of Lead, which took place at Bologna railway station in August 1980. In a dramatic moment in the film, a gang member Ice finds himself at the wrong place at the wrong time. A fictional character placed in that situation allows the reader to be involved in what might have occurred at the time. Ice arrives at the station at 10:23, and we know that at 10:25 the bomb has to go off. The explosion behind him is an effective reconstruction of the events, extremely disturbing, bringing us directly into the heart of the Bologna bombing, putting us there among the dead, showing us this is not just a fun gangster film.
De Cataldo explains that the film is different from the book, in that there is no coincidence between the gang and the bombing in the book. However, he adds, he wanted to emphasise that much of Italian history is criminal history, and there is a deep link between the lives of the ‘normal’ citizen and offices of the state, and the underworld. “And that is why Romanzo Criminale is more than a thriller – it is a historical and political crime novel.”
[From BBC Four’s Italian Noir – The Story of Italian Crime Fiction.]
| Turner's Rain,Steam and Speed [Wikimedia Commons] |
Now, for your shame, a Power, the Thirst of Gold,
That rules o'er Britain like a baneful star,
Wills that your peace, your beauty, shall be sold,
And clear way made for her triumphal car
Through the hollow, on the height, by the heath, by the orchard, by the park, by the garden, over the canal, across the river, where the sheep are feeding, where the mill is going, where the barge is floating, where the dead are lying, where the factory is smoking, where the stream is running, where the village clusters, where the great cathedral rises, where the bleak moor lies, and the wild breeze smooths or ruffles it at its inconstant will; away, with a shriek, and a roar, and a rattle, and no trace to leave behind but dust and vapour: like as in the track of the remorseless monster, Death!
The railways were omnipotent, and so like many other works of the time, Dombey and Son features a death by locomotive. The treacherous Carker is run over by a train; he
felt the earth tremble—knew in a moment that the rush was come—uttered a shriek—looked round—saw the red eyes, bleared and dim, in the daylight, close upon him—was beaten down, caught up, and whirled away upon a jagged mill, that spun him round and round, and struck him limb from limb, and licked his stream of life up with its fiery heat, and cast his mutilated fragments in the air.
An entire industry of sensationalist literature developed, with writers competing for the riders' attentions, and for shelf-space on W.H.Smith's stores. Between garish covers, there was everything the man or woman on the 2.22 desired: sex, insanity, and above all, violent death.
Cheaply bound thrillers were known as 'yellow backs' and their authors, such as Mary Elizabeth Braddon, sold in their thousands from the railway bookshops. The success of Braddon irritated George Eliot, who wrote to her publisher: 'I suppose the reason my own six shilling editions are never on the railway stalls is that they are not so attractive to the majority.' One reviewer of Braddon's work expressed regret that a book 'without a murder, a divorce, a seduction, or a bigamy, is not apparently considered either worth writing or reading.'
The Victorian sensation stories would play upon their readers' anxieties about railway travel. A woman sitting alone in a carriage might read about a woman sitting alone in a carriage, except that in the story, a strange man would leap in through the window, a strange man with a top hat and a moustache. Such breaches of compartment etiquette would be depicted later in the cinema, as in Alfred Hitchcock's version of John Buchan's The Thirty-Nine Steps where Robert Donat's character bursts in on Madeline Carroll, while she is reading, alone.
Hitchcock was no trainspotter, and his film contains one notorious mistake (notorious among the persnickety sticklers, that is). When Hannay leaves for Scotland, he is on the London and Northeastern train, as he should be. Hitchcock cuts away here, and when he cuts back, the train that is next shown is a Great Western emerging from Box Tunnel near Bath.
In the original novel, trains are marginal, but Hitchcock uses them to boost the speed and tension of the narrative. But he also made use of another tension involved in train travel: that of not being entirely sure who your travelling companions are. Walter de la Mare wrote: 'It's a fascinating experience, railway travelling. One is cast into a passing privacy with a fellow stranger, and then it is gone.'
By the end of the 19th century, trains had been tamed and were no longer a danger in themselves. They had become comprehensible. When Sherlock Holmes rode on a train, the journey was not a worry in his mind.
"We are going well," said he, looking out of the window and glancing at his watch. "Our rate at present is fifty-three and a half miles an hour."
"I have not observed the quarter-mile posts," said I.
"Nor have I. But the telegraph posts upon this line are sixty yards apart, and the calculation is a simple one..."
"Ah yes, here we are. Now, I calculate the 5 o'clock express to Brackhampton overtook my train somewhere about here.""But how can you be sure?" "I remember the ticket collector saying 'Five minutes to Brackhampton', and it couldn't have been more than a minute after the murder that he came in. So that makes it six minutes before Brackhampton, at, say, 30 miles an hour. So that makes it about ... there."
He looked at the timetable again. The train in question reached Calais at 3.31 and the boat left at 3.45. That was a delay of 14 minutes. Would there be time, he wondered, to make two long-distance phone calls in fourteen minutes?Obsession with numbers could then easily be satirised, as in this sketch from Monty Python.
| Oakworth Station (from here) |
The book came out in 1906, and by then the British were thoroughly used to railways in their every day lives. Trains could be seen as cosy and whimsical, as well as potentially dangerous. Far from being despoilers of the landscape, they had become an integral part of it. They were no longer Gothic, but sentimentalised and loved. For the Railway children, the trains were an idyll and a joy. Nesbit writes: 'The rocks and hills and valleys and trees, the canal, and above all, the railway, were so new and so perfectly pleasing that the remembrance of the old life in the villa grew to seem like a dream.'
![]() |
| John Hassall (printed for the LNER by Waterlow & Sons Ltd London) |
Giving names to trains, such as the Flying Scotsman, only added to the mystique of train travel. The romance of rail lasted well into the 1950s. In that time, the weirdos and the misfits were the boys not interested in trains. Between 1911 and 1950, The Wonderbook of Railways for Boys and Girls went through twenty-one editions. It is filled with detailed accounts of railway workings. A chat with an engine driver, and Mr Brown the signal-man. At the same time, railway stories were being written for children in their thousands: Life or Death, The Indian Rail Yarn, The Missing Mail Bag...
The perfect evocation of the railways in England is often taken to be in the form of a poem, Adlestrop by Edward Thomas. On the face of it, the poem recalls a non-event. Thomas' train makes an unscheduled stop in Adlestrop in Gloucestershire. Nothing happened, but the tranquillity of the moment and the sense of time suspended across the sunny English countryside stayed with Thomas.
Yes, I remember Adlestrop –That kind of poignancy could only have been generated retrospectively. His diary records the date of the stop: June 23, 1914. But the poem was written when he was serving in the British Army in the World War I, in which he would be killed. The view of the railways became firmly imprinted on the nation - through a haze of nostalgia.
The name because one afternoon
Of heat the express-train drew up there
Unwontendly. It was late June.
The steam hissed. Someone cleared his throat.
No one left and no one came
On the bare platform. What I saw
Was Adlestrop – only the name
And willows, willow-herb, and grass,
And meadowsweet, and haycocks dry,
No whit less still and lonely fair
Than the high cloudlets in the sky.
And for that minute a blackbird sang
Close by, and round him, mistier,
Farther and farther, all the birds
Of Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire.
During the Great War, the railways took on another significance - they took soldiers to the front, and brought them in rather fewer numbers back. As the public gained familiarity with terms such as 'ambulance carriage' and 'hospital train', the word 'departure' took on a more ominous meaning. Marcel Proust said railway stations were inherently tragic places because they carried people into the unknown. Imagine how much the stakes were raised for wartime departures. Thomas Hardy's poem 'In A Waiting Room' from a collection published in 1917 captures the leave-taking on a wet morning, described as being 'sick as the day of doom.'
A soldier and wife, with haggard look
Subdued to stone by strong endeavour;
And then I heard
From a casual word
They were parting as they believed for ever.
In WWII, the collision of personal misery and mundane chatter in the waiting room was brought to the cinema. David Lean's 'Brief Encounter' beautifully realised this. In the film, the railway station is described as 'the most ordinary place in the world', but where an earlier tormented heroine might have flung herself onto the tracks like Anna Karenina, in the 1940s, the worst a locomotive can do is to fling a bit of grit into Celia Johnson's eye.
| (Titfield Thunderbolt film poster, Wikimedia Commons) |
Ironically, in real life, that branch line had already been closed. A BBC crew filmed the making the movie, including the famous scene of the runaway train. The scriptwriter was a neighbour of Dr Beeching, the future chairman of the British Railways Board, and slayer of branch lines.
Given the aesthetic appeal of the railways, it is not surprising that a poet became their greatest champion when they came under attack. 'Rumble under, thunder over, train and tram, alternate go' he wrote:
Rumbling under blackened girders,
Midland bound for Cricklewood,
Puffed its sulphur to where that Land of
Laundries stood.
Rumble under, thunder over, train and
tram alternate go,
Shake the floor and smudge the ledger,
Charrington, Sells Dale and Co.,
Nuts and nuggets in the window
For Betjeman, the railways' appeal was their permanence, a treasure bequeathed by our forefathers, 'a Victorian's world and the present, in a moment's neighbourhood.' In his poetry, the railway station stands for a world that is fading or has vanished completely. 'Monody on the Death of Aldersgate Street Station' began:
Snow falls in the buffet of Aldersgate station,Betjeman appears to elide churches and railway stations, with both offering a refuge from the modern world. It is apt that he was behind the impetus to save St Pancras from demolition; St Pancras being a Christian saint and a railway station.
Soot hangs in the tunnel in clouds of steam.
City of London! before the next desecration
Let your steepled forest of churches be my theme.
As Dr Beeching's cuts took hold, so did come the end of the reign of steam. Carnforth, where David Lean's Brief Encounters was filmed, became the dumping ground for the disused locomotives.
Diesel had none of the romantic elegance of the old steam. And today, even locomotives appear to be on their way out. Instead, we have multiple units that are as graceful and aerodynamic as wardrobes, with charmless names like 365 class. They are functional, and like worms, they can still move after being chopped in half. But they are hardly going to inspire our writers.
The great stations of times past are distressingly anodyne today. At York, the signal cabin is now a Costa Coffee; the night station master's cabin (a location for a strangely, even satanically, compelling job description) is a tourist information centre; the old booking hall is a Burger King. Stations are no longer about the business of railways. They are in the business of retail. The mysterious soot-blackened hinterlands have been tidied away. We are passengers no longer. We are officially customers, consumers, of course.
The railway satirist who writes under the name Tyresius has updated Adlestrop for the modern day:
Haycocks and meadows sweet, I wouldn't know.The few people who write about the railways today are writing about what doesn't exist today, or even what never existed at all. Note that the Hogwarts Express of Harry Potter fame is not a diesel multiple unit. Its departure platform, the fabled nine-and-three-quarters, is a portal to a fantasy land a world away from modern King's Cross. And in the self-consciously cool series of Bourne films, Matt Damon arrives in London not on a plane, but on the Eurostar. This is highly promising.
I never looked outside the train.
Just canned beer from a plastic cup.
Until the damned thing started again.
For a revival of literary focus on the railways, the high-speed Eurostar may offer the only hope in Britain. Two hundred mile-an-hour trains. Champagne on tap in the buffet. Smartly turned out railway staff. A long undersea tunnel - anything could happen in that. For the future of trains to be assured, they much once again become the vehicles of our dreams.
[This is a (very) paraphrased rendition of Andrew Martin's 'Between the Lines: Railways in Fiction and Film', shown on BBC Four.]
Links
About Me
Categories-
- advertising (10)
- afghanistan (2)
- africa (9)
- algeria (2)
- alphabet (1)
- andorra (1)
- anglo-indians (3)
- apple (2)
- arabs (9)
- archaeology (7)
- architecture (23)
- argentina (6)
- armenia (3)
- art (94)
- astronomy (14)
- australia (6)
- austria (5)
- automobile (3)
- beer (5)
- behaviour (12)
- belgium (9)
- bengal (7)
- berlin (1)
- biography (45)
- birthdays (7)
- blogs (42)
- bolivia (1)
- book (1)
- books (398)
- bosnia (1)
- botswana (2)
- brazil (7)
- bridges (14)
- burma (4)
- business (45)
- cambodia (1)
- campanology (2)
- canada (8)
- caucasus (5)
- chechnya (3)
- cheese (4)
- chemistry (6)
- child abuse (3)
- chile (2)
- china (26)
- chocolate (2)
- climate (8)
- cocktail (5)
- coffee (5)
- colombia (3)
- computing (10)
- conference (5)
- congo (2)
- côte d'ivoire (2)
- credit (1)
- cricket (2)
- crime (1)
- cuba (4)
- culture (21)
- cyprus (1)
- czech (4)
- delhi (3)
- denmark (5)
- economics (16)
- edinburgh (3)
- education (15)
- egypt (13)
- england (143)
- environment (4)
- epidemiology (5)
- eritrea (1)
- espionage (2)
- estonia (3)
- etymology (5)
- evolution (8)
- exhibitions (7)
- family (77)
- fashion (8)
- film (39)
- finance (33)
- finland (2)
- folk tales (2)
- fonts (5)
- food (234)
- france (99)
- fraud (7)
- friends (12)
- fruit (3)
- gaming (10)
- genetics (2)
- geodesy (2)
- georgia (6)
- germany (54)
- ghana (3)
- greece (25)
- guatemala (1)
- health (9)
- hindi (4)
- history (219)
- holland (4)
- humour (63)
- hungary (8)
- iceland (2)
- ICM (10)
- IISc (13)
- IKEA (1)
- india (139)
- indonesia (5)
- inquisition (1)
- internet (18)
- iPod (2)
- iran (10)
- ireland (4)
- israel (8)
- italy (74)
- jamaica (1)
- japan (16)
- jordan (1)
- kazakhstan (1)
- kenya (1)
- kerala (6)
- kidnapping (1)
- korea (5)
- kurds (4)
- language (78)
- lebanon (2)
- life (127)
- london (98)
- low-cost airlines (2)
- malaysia (2)
- mali (2)
- manipur (2)
- maps (3)
- mathematics (70)
- mauritius (1)
- medicine (13)
- memory (1)
- mexico (15)
- mobile phone (2)
- mongolia (2)
- morocco (7)
- moscow (5)
- music (61)
- myth (16)
- names (4)
- nepal (1)
- netherlands (9)
- networking (3)
- neuroscience (1)
- new zealand (2)
- newspapers (15)
- nigeria (2)
- norway (7)
- oranges (2)
- pakistan (4)
- palestine (1)
- paris (6)
- parsis (4)
- persia (10)
- peru (2)
- philippines (1)
- photography (33)
- physics (18)
- poetry (66)
- poland (9)
- politics (28)
- polynesia (1)
- portugal (4)
- psychology (7)
- pubs (3)
- quiz (8)
- race (7)
- religion (73)
- risk (4)
- roaring twenties (5)
- robotics (1)
- romania (4)
- rome (9)
- russia (77)
- samsung (1)
- saudi arabia (2)
- science (68)
- scotland (26)
- search (1)
- serbia (2)
- sex (25)
- singapore (4)
- society (73)
- south africa (4)
- spain (42)
- sports (17)
- sri lanka (1)
- St. Stephen's (9)
- suicide (1)
- surreal (2)
- sweden (12)
- switzerland (8)
- syria (3)
- tahiti (1)
- taiwan (1)
- tajikistan (2)
- tamil (2)
- tata (3)
- tea (3)
- technology (16)
- television (16)
- thailand (6)
- thames (9)
- theatre (4)
- tibet (1)
- tolkien (2)
- trade (6)
- translation (23)
- travel (135)
- tunisia (1)
- turkey (22)
- typesetting (6)
- uganda (1)
- ukraine (4)
- uruguay (1)
- USA (87)
- uzbekistan (3)
- venezuela (2)
- vietnam (3)
- visa (1)
- vodka (4)
- wales (5)
- walks (20)
- war (23)
- web (2)
- west indies (3)
- whisky (3)
- wine (23)
- wodehouse (6)
- work (24)
- yemen (2)
- york (1)
- zambia (1)
- zimbabwe (1)
- zoroastrianism (4)

_trailer_1.jpg)



