JOST A MON

The idle ramblings of a Jack of some trades, Master of none

I have to confess it is quite difficult now to stick to the plan of reading translated crime fiction. I am an active member of three library systems in London (Westminster, City, Merton) and an inactive member of three others (Brent, Islington, Camden), and I seem to have exhausted all the foreign crime available at these libraries. I have two choices: request books on transfer from other libraries; or start buying them.

Or I can start reading more Scandinavian fiction, of course. I’ve been studiously avoiding the Jungstedts and Nesbøs that remain in my unread list. I don’t want to tar the entire region with one brush, but – going by the ones I’ve read so far – there appears to be quite a lot of similarity both in plotting and character-development among the Nordic writers, and it’s difficult to find a distinctive voice.

Difficult, but not impossible. Policeman novelist Matti Yrjänä Joensuu is a Finn with a vision. In his The Priest of Evil, he develops a peculiar mish-mash of new age religion, serial killings, deeply troubled adults and their disturbed relationships with appallingly cold and twisted parents, bullied children and their close friendships, mind control, and beneath it all, such aching sadness that it is not surprising Finland has one of the highest suicide rates in the world. A couple of fundamentalist preachers are accosting passersby at various Metro stops in Helsinki, and there appears to be a correlation between them and people falling onto the tracks. Were they pushed? Are they suicidal? The CCTVs show nothing suspicious. The investigating policeman is that rare bird in detective fiction – a man truly content in his marriage and with his little girls. Separate strands of the tale deal with a shaman who invokes an earth goddess and bleeds birds to death for his sacrifices, and a boy who strikes up a friendship with a girl who saves him from bullies. The boy’s mother is a virulently manipulative shrew, and his father is – like Joensuu – a man isolated from his colleagues because of his side career as a successful novelist. It’s obvious from the get-go who the killer is, but the goodness in the book is in the chase and in the details of a hidden Helsinki, and Joensuu’s fervent belief that the police, with a ringside view on society, is the front line in sensing evil in all its forms.

And then we have Pernille Rygg’s The Butterfly Effect, which propagates the usual misunderstanding about chaos theory, flapping wings and hurricanes, but also comes up with yet another tale of child abuse. (What is with crime fiction and child abuse? It’s as though there is no other reason for murders on the planet. Oooh, either the victim or the murderer was abused as a kid. Oooh.) In this story set in a such a small dull town in Norway that living there must be living death, a girl’s body is found in the snow, riddled with bullets. The narrator, a sparky woman, determines that the dead girl had been her father’s last client; her father was a detective who had recently died in an accident. She is keen to find out if the deaths are in any way connected, and in the course of her slightly shambolic investigation, encounters corruption (what! in Norway? Impossible!) and bent psychologists. She herself is an interesting case: a psychology student complete with a troubled relation with her mother, and married to a gay man, to boot. Her suspects are equally eclectic: a founder of a Wicca-like cult, property developers, druggies. As with the other Scandinavian storytellers of recent fame, Rygg wants to analyse the effect of psychological abuse on children and its ramifications on wider society. Small closed societies like Norway probably have scars in their psyches because everything one does is ostensibly obvious to one’s neighbours; but this close scrutiny drives evil deeper into hiding, and the consequences are therefore more corrosive.

Why, asked a Swedish acquaintance recently, are the Nordic writers so keen to show such a vicious side to their societies? ‘We are a peaceful, relatively crime-free people,’ he added. According to him, the sort of sociological analysis carried out by Henning Mankell and his younger followers are misplaced, and driven entirely by the desire to shock and to make money off that unsettledness. I don’t think this argument has much merit. Human behaviour is pretty much the same everywhere: paedophilia and serial killers are no less known in Scandinavia than in the US or India. But why is there such an outpouring of more or less similarly plotted novels coming out of Norway and Sweden and Denmark? This I am still unable to fathom.

To save us from utter pessimism about Nordic noir, we have Frode Grytten, the third and last of our Scandinavians this month, who has penned The Shadow in the River, and who is quite, quite different from the rest I’ve read so far. He is a man of mordant wit, and he shows off his skills superbly in this tale of xenophobia in Odda, yet another depressingly small and moribund town in western Norway. Grytten is a journalist for the Bergens Tidende, a newspaper in neighbouring Bergen, and so is the protagonist of this book, Robert Bell, a disillusioned, semi-alcoholic man in love with his brother’s wife, a man whose career is not going anywhere, a man who is sinking into apathy but still manages to retain his biting satirical bent of mind. He investigates the death of a local man while public opinion begins to harden against immigrant Serbs with whom the victim had been seen to argue. His brother, a policeman in charge of the case, resents his interference, but surely the resentment stems from his suspicions of his wife’s relationship with Robert. This is black understated humour and poignant and moving.

Even more poignant is Sebastien Japrisot’s heartfelt novel of the Great War, A Very Long Engagement. Five men sentenced for self-harm are executed in trenches of Verdun. Their relatives are told they died in action. The handicapped fiancee of one of the men, a girl from a privileged background and with a backbone of steel, then receives a letter which kindles her suspicion that there has been a cover-up. With immense fortitude, she begins an unofficial investigation into the matter. She casts her dragnet wide, antagonises public officials who do not want any muck raked up in the years after the war, raises the spectre of possible humiliation for the families of the dead men, stirs fond memories among mothers and sisters and wives, and follows the trail of suspicious deaths of men she finds out were involved in covering up the deaths of the soldiers. She finds out that the men’s sentences had been commuted, but vicious intermediaries had ensured the news wouldn’t reach them. She finds out that their deaths had been particularly heartless – they had been tossed into the no man’s land – when even the Germans had been horrified and ceased fire. There is much beauty to be savoured in this elegiac tale. Japrisot has vividly brought to life an era simultaneously heroic and corrupt, and the twist at the end is heart-aching, yet affirming. Excellent stuff.

Finally, we have the frenetic The Third Heaven Conspiracy (also known as The Mosaic Crimes) by Giulio Leoni – a tale of Dante (in this case following the man himself, rather than serial killers killing in accordance to the deaths in his magnum opus). Dante is an investigator, a Prior, in Florence, and he attempts to solve the death of a mosaicist involved in the construction of the new cathedral in his city. Meanwhile, the Papacy is intruding into Florentine affairs, raising the hackles of the political elite of the city-state, and raising as well the spectre of renewed conflict between the supporters of the Holy Roman Emperor and those of the Pope. Dante himself is violently anti-Rome, having himself participated in the Guelph-Ghibelline wars of a few years before. As he digs deeper into the crime, he finds that it’s not just political intrigue that is involved, but also a battle for the soul of Florence, an intellectual conquest by means of supposedly secular educational institutions. Leoni tries to get into Dante’s psyche, using his published works as a mirror to his mind, and the attempt is – to my mind, at least – futile. There’s nothing about the story that needs Dante. It appears to be a conceit of lazy writers to use historical characters as detectives, and there is sufficient encouragement from casual readers for this sort of work. I’ve seen Newton and Longfellow dragooned into the role of detective, and now it’s Dante’s turn. Ho hum.

6.23.2009

A Russian In India

After months of sporadic effort, I've translated Afanasii Nikitin's fifteenth century memoirs of his travel to India (Journey Across Three Seas). I can't say I'm completely satisfied with it. As I was not getting very far with the two or three remaining untranslated sentences, I figured I might as well throw in the towel. You can see the result here.

Do we really need yet another translation of this classic? Indeed, will anyone really be interested in mine, considering I'm no expert either in medieval Russian or in history? There are other translations available, some into French, others into English, some considered excellent, and others bowdlerized 0. The only problem is that none of these are in the public domain. At least, I haven't been able to find any, other than the one into modern Russian from which I performed my translation: the one by Ia. S. Lur’e and L.S. Semenov 1.

There are some issues even with Lur'e and Semenov's work. Nikitin often uses a mishmash of Turkic, Arabic and Persian invocations to God when he prays: these have been rendered into modern Russian as though he were venerating the Orthodox Christian divinity. Further translations from this into French and thence into English (e.g. excerpts in the book by Alam and Subrahmanyam) appear to have gotten some of the text wrong. (As an aside, I wrote to Alam and Subrahmanyam asking for clarifications and offering what I thought were correct translations, but didn't hear back from them.)

There's considerable debate about whether Nikitin converted to Islam or not during his travels. Gail Lenhoff 2 says yes, while Lur'e says no, vehemently. Check out M. J. Maxwell's analysis 3 for futher details. Others, such as Alam and Subrahmanyam 4, are non-committal, preferring to analyse his travels as part of a Indo-Persian narrative of the medieval period. Anindita Banerjee 5 further examines the text itself for evidence that Nikitin was informed by Persian storytellers, and concludes that even if he didn't convert to Islam, he certainly absorbed its cultural influences.

Nikitin himself talks about the infidels with disdain, and he rejects conversion even when he is told that he will lose his possessions if he doesn't accept Islam. On the other hand, he has several crises of faith: he claims that he has lost track of the Christian festivals and has to follow Muslim fasts, his prayers often follow the litany of Allah-o-Akbar; he does appear to sympathise more with Muslims than with the Hindus he encounters on his travels, whose idol worship he considers with horrified interest.

Who was Nikitin? He was a merchant of Tver, a principality abutting the Mongol domains in Russia. He set out down the Volga sometime in the 1470s with some merchandise, was robbed by Tartars, and decided that he could not return to Rus without making some money at least. Having heard that there was much demand for horses in India, he took a colt with him over the seas to the Deccan, where he spent much of the next two or three years. He made detailed observations about the peoples he encountered - both the wealthy nobility of Persian origin in the Bahmani Sultanates, and the indigent commoners - often repeating descriptions of their dress and economic conditions, beliefs and legends. He noted that the Bahmanis waged constant war with the neighbouring Hindu kingdom (Vijayanagar), but that its capital was never captured, and the fortunes of war were fickle, with the Muslims sometimes winning and sometimes losing.

There was much to say about the wealth of India. Nikitin saw that the nobility was very well off, whereas the commoners were dirt-poor. But India was a veritable treasure trove of textiles, precious stones, spices. Merchants were well-treated, especially white men like him, often the objects of fascination. He himself loved dark women, and was no hermit during his stay. Religion was constantly on his mind. He couldn't fit in with the Muslim elite despite giving himself the name Yusuf Khorasani, because he was a Christian; the Hindus, on the other hand, had little to do with him, hiding their wives and not eating with him, until he revealed that he was not a Muslim. Religion affected trade, too. He found to his disgust that, as a Christian, any goods he wanted to take back with him to Rus would be heavily taxed, while Muslim merchants were exempt; furthermore, the prevalence of piracy in the Arabian Sea caused him no end of anxiety.

He bewailed the inconstancy in his faith, begging God to forgive his transgressions when he didn't keep the Christian fasts. He cursed the fact that as a Christian he could not trade freely, and adjured his Christian brethren to abandon their faith if they wanted to make money in India. But again and again, his thoughts returned to his homeland. He extolled its grandeur and loveliness, and he lamented its lack of unity and the constant war between its princes that wasted lives and benighted its people.

Eventually he decided to return to Rus. His ship blew off course to Ethiopia. He made his way to the Persian Gulf and Iran and thence to the southern borders of Rus. He was caught in the midst of war and imprisoned as a spy. He managed to escape, but again his ship went off course in the Black Sea. He spent some time in Trebizond and Kaffa. Before he got back to his beloved Tver, however, he died.

[0] Tillett, Lowell R. 1966. “Afanasy Nikitin as a Cultural Ambassador to India: A Bowdlerized Soviet Translation of His Journal.” Russian Review 25/2, pp 160–69.

[1] (Ed.) Ia. S. Lur’e and L.S. Semenov, 1986. Хождение за три моря Афанасия Никитина. (Leningrad).

[2] Gail Lenhoff, 1970. "Beyond Three Seas: Afanasij Nikitin’s Journey from Orthodoxy to Apostasy", East European Quarterly, 13/4, pp 431-447.

[3] Mary Jane Maxwell, 2006. "Afanasii Nikitin: An Orthodox Russian’s Spiritual Voyage in the Dar al-Islam, 1468-1475", Journal of World History, Vol 17, No. 3.

[4] Muzaffar Alam, Sanjay Subrahmanyam, 2007. Indo-Persian Travels in the Age of Discoveries: 1400-1800 (Cambridge University Press).

[5] Anindita Banerjee, 2003. "By Caravan and Campfire: Chorasani Narratives about Hindustan and Afanasij Nikitin's 'The Journey Beyond Three Seas'", Die Welt der Slaven XLVIII, pp 69-80.

6.13.2009

Wuthering Heights

I’ve often wondered what that word meant. ‘Wuthering’. How is it pronounced, anyway? Woo-the-ring? View-the-ring? Whuh-the-ring? The eponymous book by Emily Bronte is certainly well-known. I would wager a small piece of buffalo mozzarella, though, that the poem of the same name by Sylvia Plath is not as famous. But Owen Sheers would like it better known, and here’s his take (from The Poet’s Guide to Britain) on this American poet’s tribute to the Yorkshire moors.

1 moorland This series has been about the relationship of poets with the British landscape. Moorland, this bare, wild upland country has often provided writers with the perfect setting to evoke sensations of drama, menace and alienation. It isn’t hard to see why. Standing in the midst of this bleakly imposing Yorkshire moorland, one can’t help but feel insignificant, consumed by the landscape. This landscape has featured in the works of many writers, but the poet who captures a unique vision of these Moors wasn’t even British. In fact, she only came to Yorkshire a few times. She was the young American poet Sylvia Plath.

2 plath Sylvia Plath wrote some of the most striking, original and widely-read modern poetry. Unfortunately, the mythology surrounding her personal life, her marriage to the celebrated poet Ted Hughes, her mental health problems, and her tragic suicide has tended to sometimes overshadow the richness and variety of her writing.

She is most famous for the poems of intense personal drama, “Daddy”, “Lady Lazarus”, “Ariel”, written in the last months of her life. Few would think of her as being a landscape poet, and yet throughout her prolific career, Plath wrote a number of vivid poems of place. One of the best of these is a strange and immensely powerful piece called Wuthering Heights. It’s set on the Yorkshire Moors, and after reading it, we want to make the hike up to the Moor top ruin that not only inspired Emily Bronte’s classic novel, but also this brilliant and chilling poem of Sylvia Plath’s.

Wuthering Heights by Sylvia Plath

The horizons ring me like faggots,
Tilted and disparate, and always unstable.
Touched by a match, they might warm me,
And their fine lines singe
The air to orange
Before the distances they pin evaporate,
Weighting the pale sky with a soldier color.
But they only dissolve and dissolve
Like a series of promises, as I step forward.


There is no life higher than the grasstops
Or the hearts of sheep, and the wind
Pours by like destiny, bending
Everything in one direction.
I can feel it trying
To funnel my heat away.
If I pay the roots of the heather
Too close attention, they will invite me
To whiten my bones among them.


The sheep know where they are,
Browsing in their dirty wool-clouds,
Gray as the weather.
The black slots of their pupils take me in.
It is like being mailed into space,
A thin, silly message.
They stand about in grandmotherly disguise,
All wig curls and yellow teeth
And hard, marbly baas.


I come to wheel ruts, and water
Limpid as the solitudes
That flee through my fingers.
Hollow doorsteps go from grass to grass;
Lintel and sill have unhinged themselves.
Of people and the air only
Remembers a few odd syllables.
It rehearses them moaningly:
Black stone, black stone.


The sky leans on me, me, the one upright
Among all horizontals.
The grass is beating its head distractedly.
It is too delicate
For a life in such company;
Darkness terrifies it.
Now, in valleys narrow
And black as purses, the house lights
Gleam like small change.

It’s disturbing, visceral writing, a poem in which the poet and the landscape she is describing seem to be merging into one, as if Plath were evoking the Moorland world purely to reflect her own state of mind. She wrote a sequence of seven poems about the Yorkshire Moors between 1956 and 1961. Before heading up to the Wuthering Heights, we take a look a couple of these earlier Moors poems, both written when she was in her early twenties – Hardcastle Crags and The Great Carbuncle. Both of these poems feed powerfully into the five concise verses of Wuthering Heights, written several years later, when Plath was 28.

The young British poet Clare Pollard is an admirer of Plath’s work. When most people think of Plath’s poetry, it’s fair to say they’re really thinking about her later poems, those intensely personal works, and maybe not her landscape work. Pollard says, “I think people think of the domestic landscapes, the beekeeping, we think of her in a flat with the baby, and also kind of these very intensely private mythic worlds, the world in her head. We don’t think of her as a nature poet at all, I don’t think, and yet if you look at her collected poems, you see she does engage with the outer world, she’s intensely interested in the outside world, and in writing landscape poetry.”


But where did Plath’s fascination with the Yorkshire Moors stem from, and what was she doing in England?

3 plath Sylvia Plath was born in Boston in 1932 into a family of academics, and she had written poetry intensively throughout her childhood and adolescence. She was a straight-A student, but being so driven took its toll, and in her late teens she suffered a breakdown. Yet, despite this, she went on to graduate top of her class, and in September 1955, aged 22, she arrived in Britain, having won a prestigious Fulbright scholarship to the women’s college of Newnham in Cambridge.

Her acceptance here meant the world for Plath, it really was her dream come true. She had huge expectations about what her time here at Newnham would bring for her. She was also, clearly, fiercely ambitious. When one reads her journal, it’s quite funny to see how keen she is to meet the right people. She’d come here to conquer the literary landscape. In a BBC interview in 1962, she said, “I had always idolised England, because I think, with an English major, especially, you think that here it all began, and you want to walk under Milton’s mulberry tree at Cambridge and you remember all that Dickens that you read when you were little, and this is simply a literary influence.”

4 newnham She would have been delighted to find that she has since become one of those Cambridge literary legends. Owen Sheers went to talk to some of the undergraduates at Newnham College about Sylvia and her poetry.

I think she’s definitely an icon, she made herself into an icon with her struggles and how she’s perceived to be a sufferer.”

People tend to have a romanticised view about some of her poetry, that stereotype of 16-year old girls in dark rooms reading The Bell Jar.”


Sometimes fans of Sylvia Plath’s work get something of a name for themselves for being quite fanatical. Sheers asks the students if there is any kind of embarrassment being at Newnham, saying they are a fan of Sylvia Plath’s work?


People imagine Sylvia Plath is equal to teen angst, but I think she has that raw emotion that teenagers, when they are going through a certain stage, respond to.”

As Plath was writing the journals, some of those early poems, she was only a couple of years older than these students; she was 23 years old, and yet she’s so focussed heaping all these expectations upon herself. Is that kind of drive unusual?

Everyone at Cambridge is terrifying… Everybody works hard to get here, everybody’s ambitious and everyone has aims to be the best they can. In that way, I don’t think she’s unusual from any of us here.”

The difference with Sylvia is that she had the guts to admit that she wanted to go somewhere and that she wanted to make something of it.”

When I read her journal, it’s full of bits where she says to herself, ‘Shape up, this term, this year, you will do well, you will do this, you will do that,’ and I find myself saying, ‘Yes, yes, I will!’ And then I think, am I taking advice from Sylvia Plath? And then I think, maybe I do want to be a brilliant poet like her, who wouldn’t? But maybe that’s also quite terrifying, that there’s a part of Sylvia Plath that is so recognisable.”

This is where she fell in love with Ted Hughes, so there must have been moments where she was possibly in the full flushes of romance. So maybe she was happiest here.”

Aurelia Plath, Sylvia’s mother, said, “She was a very feminine, very warm person. She had many minor loves in her life, and each time would retreat in a disillusioned way because either there was jealousy because of the time her writing consumed, the dedication she was willing to give it, and the emerging success she was receiving.

Only a few months after arriving in Cambridge, Sylvia met Ted Hughes at a party celebrating the launch of a student poetry magazine. She said in 1961, “I’d read some of Ted’s poems in this magazine, I was very impressed, and wanted to meet him. I went to this little celebration, and that’s where we met. We kept writing poems to each other, then it just grew out of that, I guess, a feeling that we both were writing so much and having such a fun time doing it, we decided we should keep on.” Hughes added, “The poems haven’t really survived, the marriage overtook the poems.”


5 plath-hughes Sylvia and Ted were married in a secret wedding just four months after they met. Following the honeymoon in September 1956, Ted took her home to his parents’ house in Heptonstall, a village perched on the Moor tops above the Calder Valley. Until they arrived, Ted’s parents didn’t even know that their youngest son had a wife. Sylvia arrived eager to make a good impression on her new in-laws, but also to immerse herself in everything this foreign landscape offered her as a writer. It was a very exciting period in her life. At the same time, it all got a bit much for her. She was a young wife, staying here with her husband’s family for the first time. She was in a very different culture, and on top of it all, the good old Yorkshire weather must have been a stark contrast to bright skies she was used to back home in America.

6 heptonstall However, at some level, her Yorkshire experiences were all grist to her poetry. In the Pennines, she discovered a landscape that was at once alien and yet at the same time inspirational. The double-edged relationship with a forbidding, foreign environment is the recurring subject through Plath’s sequence of Moors poems, and one that culminates in Wuthering Heights, where she finally seems to claim the landscape as her own.

She couldn’t have written that great poem, Wuthering Heights, without first writing those other Yorkshire poems that came before it, one of which began right here.



Hardcastle Crags by Sylvia Plath

Flintlike, her feet struck
Such a racket of echoes from the steely street,
Tacking in moon-blued crooks from the black
Stone-built town, that she heard the quick air ignite
Its tinder and shake


A firework of echoes from wall
To wall of the dark, dwarfed cottages.
But the echoes died at her back as the walls
Gave way to fields and the incessant seethe of grasses
Riding in the full


Of the moon, manes to the wind,
Tireless, tied, as a moon-bound sea
Moves on its root. Though a mist-wraith wound
Up from the fissured valley and hung shoulder-high
Ahead, it fattened


To no family-featured ghost,
Nor did any word body with a name
The blank mood she walked in. Once past
The dream-peopled village, her eyes entertained no dream,
And the sandman's dust


Lost luster under her footsoles.
The long wind, paring her person down
To a pinch of flame, blew its burdened whistle
In the whorl of her ear, and like a scooped-out pumpkin crown
Her head cupped the babel.


All the night gave her, in return
For the paltry gift of her bulk and the beat
Of her heart was the humped indifferent iron
Of its hills, and its pastures bordered by black stone set
On black stone. Barns


Guarded broods and litters
Behind shut doors; the dairy herds
Knelt in the meadow mute as boulders;
Sheep drowsed stoneward in their tussocks of wool, and birds,
Twig-sleep, wore


Granite ruffs, their shadows
The guise of leaves. The whole landscape
Loomed absolute as the antique world was
Once in its earliest sway of lymph and sap,
Unaltered by eyes,


Enough to snuff the quick
Of her small heat out, but before the weight
Of stones and hills of stones could break
Her down to mere quartz grit in that stony light
She turned back.

Heading out into the rough country beyond Heptonstall village, with those terse and stony sounds resonating around one’s head, one can’t help but sense that menace which Plath evokes lurking behind every rock and tree. It’s an eerie place to go walking. At Hardcastle Crags, Plath begins her journey and this is where her relationship with the Yorkshire landscape takes off. The eponymous poem that she wrote was her first really exciting work about the Yorkshire Moors, and contains all of the raw materials of her later work about this landscape. There is imagery of the grasses, that touch of the occult, the landscape being threatening, something that very much challenges her, that she has to stand up to.

7 ghosts Although these images are good, and they do work and help one see this place, they don’t yet quite have that uniquely strange quality that one associate with her work. That’s because she is a young poet who is still negotiating her way through this environment, and finding out how she wants to write about it. Most of Plath’s Yorkshire writing picks up on a sense of the supernatural. Along with the often haunting atmosphere of the Moors themselves, Ted also introduced his new wife to the local folklore and superstition.

One of the interesting things about being up her in Yorkshire is discovering how strong the culture of story-telling still is, and specifically, the telling of ghost stories. In a pub on the edge of Widdup Moor, one can hear some of these folk tales for oneself.

She hung herself in the corridor down there, and that’s her chair over by the bar. Anybody comes in now and she doesn’t like them, the front door bangs to. And he sat down in the chair, and as he did the door banged and the wind whistled round and opened these doors as well, and they banged. So he had the double doors. He never sat in the chair again.

This is the kind of story that Sylvia Plath would have heard during her time in Moors. It’s the quality of these stories that has fed into that slightly haunting tone in her writing about this place. It’s an entirely appropriate tone because it does capture an essence of what it feels like to be here. The Moors are quite an eerie place. They can feel very other-worldly.

8 moor town The second of Sylvia’s poems that is worth exploring was written after a trip to Yorkshire in June 1957. It draws deeply on the supernatural dimension of the Moors and is called The Great Carbuncle. As her relationship with these Moors develops, she increasingly brings more of herself into the poems she writes about them. In The Great Carbuncle she does this by fusing her experience here with a short story from her own literary heritage – a story by the American writer Nathaniel Hawthorne. In the story, a group of explorers travel out into the wilderness in search of a gem of great brightness, the Great Carbuncle, which one would imagine to be pretty handy should the mist suddenly come down and one can’t see a thing in any direction whatsoever.


The Great Carbuncle by Sylvia Plath

We came over the moor-top
Through air streaming and green-lit,
Stone farms foundering in it,
Valleys of grass altering
In a light neither dawn


Nor nightfall, out hands, faces
Lucent as porcelain, the earth's
Claim and weight gone out of them.
Some such transfiguring moved
The eight pilgrims towards its source--


Toward the great jewel: shown often,
Never given; hidden, yet
Simultaneously seen
On moor-top, at sea-bottom,
Knowable only by light


Other than noon, that moon, stars ---
The once-known way becoming
Wholly other, and ourselves
Estranged, changed, suspended where
Angels are rumored, clearly


Floating , among the floating
Tables and chairs. Gravity's
Lost in the lift and drift of
An easier element
Than earth, and there is nothing


So fine we cannot do it.
But nearing means distancing:
At the common homecoming
Light withdraws. Chairs, tables drop
Down: the body weighs like stone.

Jo Shapcott, one of Britain’s leading poets, says, “There’s a kind of strangeness that makes the landscape almost surreal… The Great Carbuncle [is] an extraordinary tour de force… Plath exploring the landscape but exploring the atmosphere and the light. It’s quite beautiful but quite terrifying at the same time.”

She’s still early on in her writing life, still a young poet when she writes The Great Carbuncle. Despite this, Shapcott points out, “she is already technically assured. You feel, as a reader, you are in the hands of a completely safe poet. Powers of observation are fantastic.”

Shapcott herself, after moving into hill country in the Welsh borders, was inspired to write a sequence of short, two-verse poems. Like Plath, she says, she was an urban stranger to the hills. She also, like her, responded to the light.

The British writer who fired Plath’s imagination from a young age, and with whom she shared the same Gothic sensibility, was Emily Bronte, author of that famous Moorland novel of romantic passion, Wuthering Heights. Newly married and full of own literary ambitions, it must have been thrilling for Sylvia to come to Bronte country, and with her very own Heathcliff in tow. It’s no surprise that when Sylvia Plath got here she came to have a look at the Bronte Parsonage in Haworth. This was the home of those famous literary literary Bronte sisters who must have cast such a shadow of influence and ambition over the young Plath while she was here.

The Brontes were a truly impressive family. Like Sylvia, they’d started writing from an early age, and Charlotte and Emily went on to achieve Sylvia’s dream of publishing iconic novels before they were thirty. Her own time in Yorkshire didn’t only inspire poetry, but article and short stories as well. Her literary career received a huge boost when the prestigious New Yorker magazine accepted Hardcastle Crags for publication. The $350 fee for the poem was enough to pay the rent on her and Ted’s apartment when they moved to Boston for the summer of 1958.

9 dartmoorSylvia’s travels with Ted around America gave her a whole new range of landscapes to write about. After their return to England, Hardcastle Crags appeared in her first collection of published poems, The Colossus. By August 1961, Sylvia and Ted had a young daughter and were expecting a second child when they decided to move from London to a village near Dartmoor in Devon. Tragically, it was here, a year later, that their marriage fell apart. However, shortly after the move, being near moorland again, Sylvia wrote a poem that was based on an extraordinary hike from Haworth up to the windswept ruin of the Top Withins, the supposed location of Heathcliff's manor in the Bronte novel. It was this forlorn place that inspired Sylvia’s most origination evocation of the moors, her own Wuthering Heights.

10 heathcliff manor That walk with the lines of Plath’s poem in one’s head charges it even more with energy. Everywhere one looks, one sees parts of the poem, the grass distractedly beating its head, the black stones of the walls, and then feeling the wind pouring by like destiny. Plath came up here for this ruin, and although it has no specific association with Emily Bronte’s Wuthering Heights, its exposed position right on the top of the Moors is thought to have inspired the setting of Heathcliff’s fictional manor. She must have been excited to be atop this hill. One of her reasons to come to Britain was because of its literary history, and here she was literally immersed in it. While earlier this weight of literary history might have been intimidating, now she had the confidence to take the title Wuthering Heights to tell her own story.

As well as a seriousness and a passion, she has always been wonderful at rooting into her subconscious for exactly the right image to express an emotion. But also a kind of wit, a great humour that really expresses itself wonderfully in Wuthering Heights in the sheep. Although the sheep are sinister, they’re also a bit silly and old womanish. And she characterises that beautifully. It’s deft, wonderfully deft.” [Jo Shapcott]


One of the most successful things about Wuthering Heights is the way that Sylvia Plath captures this environment, by using some incredibly startlingly surprising imagery. For example, in Hardcastle Crags, although her line, “the incessant seethe of grasses riding in the fall of the moon” works, and is a really vivid description, in Wuthering Heights, she takes us to a whole new level when she writes “the grass is beating its head distractedly. It is too delicate for a life in such company. Darkness terrifies it.” We know that although she has got exactly the right image for the grasses up there, that she is also talking about herself. So the grasses and her state of mind have become one.

So it’s a fantastic landscape poem, and one of her best because although her psychology is very present in it, it’s still a landscape poem that brings this environment to vital life in a really amazing way.

Wuthering Heights must have been a poem that Sylvia Plath rated highly, as she made it the opening to Crossing The Water, the second collection she had planned for publication. Tragically, Sylvia didn’t live to see this or her third and most famous collection, Ariel, published. However, almost 20 years after her death, her collected poems won the Pulitzer Prize, and today she is recognised as a pioneering figure, and one of modern poetry’s most important voices.

There’s absolutely no denying that Sylvia Plath has had a huge impact on women poets. Many have either felt they’ve have to define themselves against her in a completely different way… She was the first poet I really read seriously, and she had a huge impact on me.” [Claire Pollard]

It was in conversation with the Moor landscape that the young Sylvia Plath developed her poetic voice. In return, she has made the Yorkshire Moors live on the page in a wholly new way, through the poems they inspired her to write. In all of her moor poems, the landscape is threatening, apparently intent on snuffing the quick of her small heat out. And on the whole it would seem that it’s successful, because at the end of those poems, she does retreat from the Moorland and returns to the lowland lights.

But Wuthering Heights is different, and at the end, she doesn’t retreat from the Moors, but chooses instead to stay put, up on the high ground. This gives the close of the poem a real sense of victory, as if by imprinting the landscape with her unique vision and imagination, she powerfully claims it as her own.

6.09.2009

Salad Days

More foodiness Ogden Nasherily at that thar foodie place. Dismal attempts at innovative salad-making by over-enthusiastic and under-talented chefs would get anyone's goat; in this case, even the goat would balk.

6.06.2009

Hamnavoe

It’s hard to think of a twentieth century poet more intimately connected with a specific place than George Mackay Brown is with Orkney. The past and the present of Orkney is the unchallenged subject of his writing. Over novels, short stories and poetry, he perfected his brilliant and original vision of this place, where the rhythms of land and sea wove a pattern and harmony through his imagination.

Stromness Hamnavoe is George Mackay Brown’s wonderful poem, set in the isle of Orkney. He was one of the greatest Scottish poets of the 20th century, but unlike many other writers of the period, he never belonged to a clique, a club, or a style. He was an outsider who lived in one of most remote corners of Britain, and we are intrigued to find out how that place made George the great poet that he would become.

Orkney is just a short ferry ride of the far northern tip of Scotland, but it seems a lot further. The distinctive huddle of low green islands, the high mountains, and the astonishing colours of light, immediately places us in a new world. For George, the island of Orkney was his home, his identity, and his subject. He wrote prolifically about this place, and maybe never better than in the poem Hamnavoe. Hamnavoe is the Old Norse name for Stromness, the small town where George lived and died. The poem is a celebration of that town, woven with a poignant personal memory, a memory of his father.

Hamnavoe (George Mackay Brown)

My father passed with his penny letters
Through closes opening and shutting like legends
When barbarous with gulls
Hamnavoe's morning broke

The opening lines of the poem are unmistakably George Mackay Brown, full of compact, jewel-like, brilliant images. Pamela Beasant, a poet of Orkney, calls him a “between-the-eyes” poet, his work “is so concise, so beautifully spare.” Don Paterson, another contemporary poet, calls Hamnavoe a “great place to start, because you’ll get it, and it won’t make you feel stupid. One of the reasons is that it actually trusts your intelligence.”

How did this poem make it onto the page? And how did George Mackay Brown, a largely uneducated boy from a poor family, make the journey to become a poet in the first place?

He was born in a house in Stromness that still stands; the youngest of John and Mary Brown’s five children. One of his earliest and most vivid memories of his times in the house is of being told stories by his older sister, Ruby, as they sat on a rug by the fire. He wrote his full poem at the age of eight. Unfortunately, no copies have survived of that poem, but we do know what it was about, the same subject that would continue to draw George’s gaze for the rest of his life.

[George Mackay Brown, BBC radio interview, 1989] “I remember sitting in a field, one Saturday, I think it must have been, I wrote a poem about Stromness. I took it home and showed it my mother and father and they thought it was wonderful. I think it must have been pretty awful, of course!

sea and sky in orkney It may be a trite observation, but what one observes in childhood often serves to illuminate the adult imagination. What George saw outside his first house in Stromness was the lovely old fisherman’s pier, and it’s a view that contains all the most important elements of his writing – the farmers’ fields, the lobster creels, the sea, the hills, houses clustered around the edge.

I began to write again when I was in my mid-teens. But they were very morbid sort of poems, melodramatic deaths and all that sort of thing. But I was at the age, I think, you know, where a kind of darkness comes in the mind, but only temporary, thank goodness.

In 1940, at the age of 18, George left school with the minimum of qualifications, and even less in the way of motivation. He seemed lethargic and depressed, and ended up following his father into the postal service. Not as a postman; he sorted mail. Although he was still working away at odd poems, the chance he might have a literary career was unthinkable. John Brown had always encouraged his children to get themselves out of the rut, to make something of themselves, but at this point in his life, George seemed to have little sense of what to do with himself. It was at this time that a bleak sequence of events began to make that decision for him.

While George was sorting mail, life in the outside world was rapidly changing. When the British fleet anchored in Orkney at the start of the Second World War, these remote islands suddenly found themselves at the heart of the action. Sixty thousand soldiers poured in to protect the strategically important naval base of Scapa Flow. The population mushroomed and within a matter of months there were three servicemen in the Orkneys to every one islander.

During these war years, George’s own world was blown apart. When he was called up, his army medical revealed he couldn’t fight because he had tuberculosis. On top of this, the fear of infecting his colleagues at the sorting office meant he lost his job and he was confined to his sick bed. His family were warned that he would never be strong enough to lead a normal life. While his old classmates went off to fight, he was told he was unfit for duty. What would he do?

Someone who helped him answer this question was an army officer who was billeted in the Brown household. His name was Francis Scarfe, an established poet and university lecturer who introduced the convalescing George to a whole raft of writers, including D.H. Lawrence and Dylan Thomas, as well as the music of Mozart, Beethoven and Mendelssohn. More than this, though, he encouraged the awkward adolescent to develop his own poetic voice. For a brief period, George poured his energies into writing.

But undoubtedly the greatest impact on George’s life during the war years was his father’s death. The war effort involved the whole of the Orkney community. George’s father had the gruelling job of spending freezing cold nights tending the isolated lookout huts that lined Scapa Flow. It was while he was on duty in July 1940, that the sixty-five-year-old John Brown died suddenly of a heart attack. It must have been a dark time for George, trying to come to terms with his father’s death, and finding himself too ill to ever work. He was stuck in the rut that his father had always hoped his children would avoid. It was seven years later, by which time George was twenty-five, that he felt able to write about his father in the poem that eventually became Hamnavoe.

Hamnavoe is a vividly visual poem that evokes the life and the spirit of a small Orkney community. In it, the town unfolds for us as a postman makes his rounds through the streets. That postman is John Brown, the poet’s father. And Hamnavoe, whilst being a poem of tribute to a place, is also an elegiac hymn to John Brown, a poetic letter written by a son to his father.


My father passed with his penny letters
Through closes opening and shutting like legends
When barbarous with gulls
Hamnavoe's morning broke


On the salt and tar steps. Herring boats,
Puffing red sails, the tillers
Of cold horizons, leaned
Down the gull-gaunt tide


And threw dark nets on sudden silver harvests.
A stallion at the sweet fountain
Dredged Water, and touched
Fire from steel-kissed cobbles.


Hard on noon four bearded merchants
Past the pipe-spitting pier-head strolled,
Holy with greed, chanting
Their slow grave jargon.


A tinker keened like a tartan gull
At cuithe-hung doors. A crofter lass
Trudged through the lavish dung
In a dream of cornstalks and milk.


In "The Arctic Whaler" three blue elbows fell,
Regular as waves, from beards spumy with porter,
Till the amber day ebbed out
To its black dregs.
In that fantastic first half of Hamnavoe, even though it’s set in a long-gone era, the townsfolk, not just John Brown the postman, but the fishermen, the merchants, seem to be hotwired into life in every line. Especially evocative is where George is describing the men drinking at the bar, where he talks about “Three blue elbows fell, regular as waves, from beards spumy with porter”, the idea of the elbows rising and falling like the waves outside.

The postman, John Brown, was a popular figure in Stromness, and his son too became a well-known character about town. Everyone still talks about George as a friend, and his spirit seems tangible in the place. As he said in 1976, “Everybody’s life is conditioned, to a great extent by the place that they live in. Stromness is a, well, it’s a beautiful place to live in, I think. It’s a sort of microcosm of the whole of life in quite a small area. You can see things whole and complete from any point of view. I don’t know whether there’s any other place on earth quite like it.

The physical geography of Stromness and the Orkney isles is clearly important to the voice and the style that George developed. “Over the years, George has become the Orkney poet. He has become the person who has portrayed Orkney. Ironically, he hardly visited any of Orkney. He lived in Stromness, but apart from that, he didn’t even go into Kirkwall very often. But his knowledge of historic Orkney was considerable. He got his first book of the sagas in the local library, and he didn’t return it.” (Megan Macinnes, Orkney poet and friend of George.)

St Magnus' Cathedral, Kirkwall The sagas are the ancient tales of Orkney’s Viking past. To get a sense of the influence these sagas had on George, we must visit Kirkwall, the same ancient landmark that fuelled his interest in Orkney’s ancient heritage. In the summer of 1941, while George was recovering in a sanatorium, he made several walks into Kirkwall. One of those visits, he stepped into the St Magnus Cathedral, at that point the largest building he’d ever been inside in his life. He was immediately impressed and moved by this inherently native church, not just aesthetically by its structure , but also intellectually, by the history that this building held literally within its stones.

In the early 11th century, the Earldom of Orkney was shared between two cousins, Magnus and Haakon. When the two cousins feuded, they met at a peace conference at which Haakon treacherously ordered the murder of Magnus. Magnus went to his death willingly, apparently as happy as a man on his way to a feast, choosing to martyr himself for his cousin’s soul and for the peace of the Orkney Isles. His bones are immured in a pillar in the Cathedral.

The cathedral represented to George a physical link to Orkney’s past, while the sagas gave him the key to unlock the simple yet arresting narrative of his island’s heritage.

[Extract from Saint Magnus in Egilsay, by George Mackay Brown] “Bow your blank head. Offer your innocent vein. A red wave broke. The bell sang in the tower. Hands from the plough carried the broken saint under the arch below the praying sea. Knelt on the stones.

The Orkney sagas, though, were not just influential upon George’s subject mater, but also upon his style. It was from the sagas, it seems, that the harvested so many of the crucial elements in the flavours and the tones of his own writing. “…The most important thing about George’s poetry is compression. What George learned is the value of getting rid of words and getting down to simplicity. That was because of reading the sagas. In fact, he says in a letter to my dad: ‘It is going to be clean and crisp, and I am going to get rid of anything that is not needed.’ That is when his poetry took off.” [Megan Macinnes]

It’s absolutely this crispness and clarity, this pared-down style that makes Hamnavoe so impressive.

The boats drove furrows homeward, like ploughmen
In blizzards of gulls. Gaelic fisher girls
Flashed knife and dirge
Over drifts of herring,


And boys with penny wands lured gleams
From the tangled veins of the flood. Houses went blind
Up one steep close, for a
Grief by the shrouded nets.


The kirk, in a gale of psalms, went heaving through
A tumult of roofs, freighted for heaven. And lovers
Unblessed by steeples, lay under
The buttered bannock of the moon.


He quenched his lantern, leaving the last door.
Because of his gay poverty that kept
My seapink innocence
From the worm and black wind;


And because, under equality's sun,
All things wear now to a common soiling,
In the fire of images
Gladly I put my hand
To save that day for him.

The award-winning poet Don Paterson is an admirer of this poem, and a fan of George Mackay Brown and his lean style. “It reminds you of that open treeless, windswept landscape somehow, these standing stones and stuff. Maybe that’s just a romantic projection. But it’s hard not to hear the wind whistling through the words somehow when you read George.”

rackwick Hamnavoe is a deeply nostalgic poem, a yearning for an Orkney before the invasion of the modern world. This nostalgia, which touches much of George’s poetry, apparently grew out of a journey he made to the nearby island of Hoy just after the war. He was nearly 25 when he first made that short boat trip to the island and its hidden valley of Rackwick. When he came here, he said that the beauty of Rackwick struck him like a blow. It is a landscape of rare and quite astounding grandeur. The green valley was a crucial physical place of escape for George. He would come here in the summer when it was warm, and sit around the peat fires and tell stories and drink with his friends.



RACKWICK (a poem for Ian Macinnes, by George Mackay Brown)

Let no tongue idly whisper here
Between those strong red cliffs,
Under that great mild sky
Lies Orkney's last enchantment,
The hidden valley of light
Sweetness from the clouds pouring
Songs from the surging sea
Fenceless fields,
Fishermen with ploughs and old heroes
Endlessly sleeping
in Rackwick's compassionate hills.

But to George, Rackwick also seemed to be a melancholy place. The derelict croft houses, the slow fires of rust devouring the ploughs, and all the remnants of Rackwick’s once populous past were start evidence for him of how the rigours of the progress could leave a community to die. “He had a very idealised picture of communities in one sense. When he went to Rackwick, what he discovered was a dying community that he wanted to memorialise. In a poem to my father, he called it Orkney’s last enchantment. He saw it as the last gasp of fishermen, crofters, working together, in a simple kind of way, without the mechanism of capitalism and all that.” [Megan Macinnes]

Rusty plough on Rackwick George’s expeditions to Rackwick presented him with a new perspective on his own community back in Stromness, and a sense of the role he could play in preserving its past. As he wrote, “I see my task as the poet and storyteller to resuce the century’s treasure before it is too late. It is as though the past is a great ship that has gone ashore, and archivist and writer must gather as much of the rich squandered cargo as they can.”

Throughout the 1940s, he began to find his voice as a poet, and in 1947, he wrote his first draft of Hamnavoe. But George was both personally and artistically a late developer. Although he was always writing something, it is fair to say he spent much of his 20s staring into the bottom of a beer glass. His poetry may never have left Orkney had it not been a fortuitous meeting in the summer of 1950, by which time George was nearly 30. In the Stromness Hotel, in its bar, George got to meet one of his great heroes of poetry, the wonderful Scottish poet, who was also an Orkney man, Edwin Muir, who encouraged George to come to the college where he was warden, a college called Newbattle, just outside of Edinburgh. George eagerly took up the invitation, and his time in Newbattle was vital in helping mature as a poet by introducing him to a world beyond Orkney. And, really, this marks not just the beginning of a new chapter in George’s life, but also the most important chapter in his writing life, in that those years he spent in that college would inform and influence his poetry for the rest of his life.

From Newbattle, George went on to Edinburgh University. In the pubs of Rose Street, he met some of the leading literary figures of Scottish poetry at that time, and grew to be respected as a contemporary.


poets pub edinburgh


But George was always an island man, and soon returned home to Orkney. The friends he’d made on the mainland, though, were still looking out for him. “In fact, it was Edwin Muir who smoothed the path for me,” he said, “I would never have dared to send a bunch of poems to any publisher. I got a letter from the Hogarth Press, which was a marvellous surprise for me, because I didn’t even know they had been submitted!” And by 1959, at the age of 38, George’s literary career was finally under way, spearheaded by Hamnavoe and the other remarkable poems published in Loaves and Fishes. George went on to become one of the most prolifically-published poets. Twenty-three books of poetry, six novels, as well as journalism, short stories and plays. He received a host of awards and honours for his unique writing, and was even nominated for the Booker Prize for Beside the Ocean of Time. His work was perhaps less widely read than it might have been, though, owing to George’s reclusive nature. He only ever made two journeys out of Scotland in his lifetime.

sea and sky in orkney 2 It is hard to quantify George Mackay Brown’s influence on the poetry that has been written since, in Scotland and in Britain. Don Paterson says, “I just think it sometimes takes the quieter voices a long time to be heard clearly. It’s really only in the last… maybe 15, 20 years that we’ve really started to hear his influence come through, maybe largely by poets of my generation. George has become a touchstone point in terms of how you deal with the image, how you talk about nature in a way that doesn’t seem to appropriate it, and how you tune your ear. He has become a real touchstone point.

A lot of people write about St Kilda, which is the outermost of the Outer Hebrides, but no-one much writes about Luing, which is one of the Inner Hebrides, because it’s so easy to get to. But it’s an even stranger place…” [Don Paterson]

Luing (Don Paterson)

When the day comes,
as the day surely must,
When it is asked of you
and you refuse
to take that lover's wound again,
that cup
of emptiness
that is our one completion,
I'd say go here
maybe
to our unsung
innermost isle: Kilda's antithesis,
yet still with its own tiny stubborn anthem,
its yellow milkwort and its stunted kye.

Leaving the motherland
by a two car raft,
the littlest of the fleet,
you cross the minch
to find yourself, if anything,
now deeper in her arms than ever,
sharing her breath.
Watching the red vans sliding silently
between her hills.
In such intimate exile,
who'd believe the burn behind the house
the straitened ocean written on the map?

Here,
beside the fordable Atlantic
reborn into a secret candidacy,
the fontanelles
reopen
one by one
in the palms,
then the breastbone
and the brow,

Aching
at the shearwater's wail,
the rowan
that falls beyond all seasons.

One morning
you hover on the threshold,
knowing for certain
the first touch
of the light
will finish you.
Pamela Beasant was a friend of George’s during the last years of his life. “Nobody will ever write about Stromness or maybe even think about Stromness in the way he did. It’s odd, but when he died, it was like a physical absence, there was a hole in the town, it was very noticeable. Even now it’s still noticeable when you walk past his house and look up. He often had daffodils at the window. And his absence is almost palpable, and I found that, for quite a long time after he died, somehow or other, Stromness had shed a skin in some way, and was just Stromness again.

George Mackay Brown in Stromness George died in 1996 in the same town that he was born. Stromness gave so much to George the subject matter for his writing and a community which nurtured him as a poet. In return, he’s left Stromness with an extraordinary body of work which captures and preserves the character of his town, his Hamnavoe.

For schoolchildren, it’s now the poem they always have to do. It becomes the one, ‘Oh, no, another George poem, good grief!’ But in the long term it’s given Stromness a kind of history that it didn’t ever think it would have. Stromness never expected to be a place where people from all over the world were coming to see the kind of imagery George was talking about. What George did for the community was make it feel more aware of the specialness of things.” [Megan Macinnes]

After a few days here, one realises what a great poetic guidebook Hamnavoe is to this town. It conjures up the history the land, the skies, the people, and in a very subtle way, it conjures up George, too. The best image in the whole poem, though, comes right at the end.

In the fire of images
Gladly I put my hand
To save that day for him.
In writing this poem, George is saving that day for his father, but he’s also trying to save that day for himself, by capturing the spirit of this town, through which John Brown walked every day on his rounds. Most importantly, this is why the poem has such power. In those last lines, George Mackay Brown is voicing a shared wish of every grown-up child towards every parent, to freeze-frame them in the landscape in which they are most alive to us, wherever that may be.

Written and Narrated by Owen Sheers: The Poet’s Guide to Britain, BBC Four.

In Britain, our poets have always had a very intense relationship with the places that matter to them. In this post, taken almost verbatim from Owen Sheers’ excellent television series on BBC, we look at a poem by one of the greats that has come out of this ongoing conversation between Britain’s landscape and her poets. The most famous such conversation was that between William Wordsworth and the Lake District. When we think of Wordsworth, the images that probably come to mind are lakes, wandering clouds and daffodils. And yet, in 1802, when he wrote, in what would become one of his best known poems, “Earth hath not anything to show more fair”, the beautiful view he was writing about wasn’t a mountain or some flowers he had stumbled upon. He was writing instead of this place - London.

Composed Upon Westminster Bridge (William Wordsworth) 
Earth has not anything to show more fair:
Dull would he be of soul who could pass by
A sight so touching in its majesty:
This City now doth, like a garment, wear
The beauty of the morning; silent, bare,
Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie
Open unto the fields, and to the sky;
All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.
Never did sun more beautifully steep
In his first splendour, valley, rock, or hill;
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!
The river glideth at his own sweet will:
Dear God! the very houses seem asleep;
And all that mighty heart is lying still!
This poem is a fourteen-line sonnet about London at dawn, one of the great love songs to the city.

London It is a fabulous piece of writing that does all the things that a good poem should: in the incredibly short space of a page, it takes us somewhere, it manages to change the weather in our heads. It is also a poem very much of its time, and yet manages to travel remarkably well, in that were we to walk across Westminster Bridge today, we would still have the same basic experience. There would still be Wordsworth’s moment of stillness betwixt all that activity on the banks. We only need to talk to the people who cross it every day in the morning on their way to work to get a sense of this. The best thing for me about seeing the river in the morning is it’s a very small world shared with very few people. So very early in the morning when just the sun’s coming up, it feels like a little town. This is a beautifully simple poem about the city at dawn. So how come it was written by a poet from the Lake District? What was Wordsworth doing on Westminster Bridge that morning? Where was he going? What was on his mind?

The story behind the poem is the surprising tale of Wordsworth’s love life, the complex tale of his love for three different women.

Lake District Lakeland poet William Wordsworth was, of course, one of the towering figures of English Romanticism, alongside Keats, Byron, Shelley, and Wordsworth’s close friend Coleridge. When he started writing at the end of the 18th century, he was an idealistic radical. By the end of his life, in the middle of the 19th, he’d become the revered and grand old man of English verse. The Lakes was where he was born and bred, spent most of his life, and where his poetry seems indelibly inked on the landscape. For Wordsworth as a writer, the landscape of the Lake District was so much more than just his poetic canvas. It was his teacher, his muse, or as he said himself, “The anchor of my purest thoughts, the nurse, the guide, the guardian of my heart, and soul, of all my moral being.” Although he was raised in the lakes, at 17 he moved away, first to university in Cambridge, then becoming something of a nomad, spending much of his time hiking across England and Wales, and further afield on trips to Switzerland, Germany, Austria and revolutionary France. During those years, he searched restlessly for a purpose for his life, aiming to define his ideas about nature and religion and politics. In 1800, at the age of 29, he found himself once again without a permanent residence and with a growing certainty that he was ready to go back home.

Dove Cottage In the autumn of that year he returned on a walking tour with Coleridge. It was on that tour that he discovered the cottage that became his home. Dove Cottage immediately seemed the ideal place in which to begin a new chapter in his life.

At this point in his life, it is fair to say that in the eyes of the world, he had achieved relatively little. But once ensconced in this place, all of that began to change. When he moved in here, the house was cold; apparently one of the chimneys smoked very badly; but Wordsworth didn’t mind: he was ecstatic finally to have a home. The publication of the radical collection of his and Coleridge’s verse, Lyrical Ballads, had started to make his name. But with the new-found security of this place, over the next three years, Wordsworth would go on to write some of the best poetry of his life.

But Wordsworth didn’t come to Dove Cottage on his own. He moved in with his sister Dorothy. William and Dorothy were brought up separately, after the death of first their mother and then their father. However, they retained a strong emotional bond, and in their mid-20s, out of friendship and convenience, they began living together. By the time they moved to Grasmere five years later, they were clearly devoted companions.

The fascinatingly intimate journal that Dorothy kept about their time together here is the main source of information about their daily routine. It’s also clear from the pages of this journal that brother and sister shared and discussed many of the experiences that would go on to become Wordsworth’s poems. There is still a strong echo at Dove Cottage of that intense literary and personal relationship between brother and sister, although neither these rooms, Dorothy’s journal, nor Wordsworth’s poems, answer the many outstanding questions about their artistic and emotional interaction.

Adam O’Riordan is the writer-in-residence at the Wordsworth Trust in Grasmere. What is it like for him to live with William and Dorothy?

There is this sense of the things that Dorothy and William and Coleridge and everyone else was pushing towards do still live on here in a way. I guess the role of the poet-in-residence is to embody that, and to be that, if that doesn’t sound too grand, which it’s not. You’re keeping that going, you’re writing the poems. There is something so winning and drawing about re-imagining the intimacies that existed between the Wordsworths, between Dorothy and Mary and William, and what went on in that house. It is a great starting point for poems. I know other poets have successfully written about them, but they are great places to go to fire your imagination.
A Double Wash Stand (Adam O’Riordan)

Before the age condemned such joint ablutions
You dip your hands in the tepid water
as geese come in low across the lake
landing on their shadows,
their shadows becoming their wake
breaking apart the imago
they seem to chase.
So you break this tension
shattering your own reflections.
There’s a complicity
in getting clean together
who knows what distances
you travelled in your sleep
back towards one another,
and the secrets
that those distances will keep
each movement fluid
and practised in the winter air
You revel in this intimate act,
not quite each other’s double.
Your easy mime of mannerisms
from other lives
like brother and sister.
No, I mean man and wife.

There will always be speculation about William and Dorothy’s relationship at Dove Cottage. But she certainly wasn’t the only woman in Wordsworth’s life. One of his closest friends at the time was a Lakeland girl, Mary Hutchinson. Wordsworth had actually been in the same school as Mary, so he’d known her almost all of his life. In the summer of 1787, she joined William and Dorothy on their rambles through the woods and hills of Penrith. Since their arrival at Dove Cottage, she’d been a regular visitor. At some point, possibly around the end of 1801, William decided to ask her to marry him. His marriage to Mary and her settling in at Dove Cottage would be the final keystone in the architecture of this newly settled life that Wordsworth was building for himself at Grasmere.

Annette In early 1802, William and Mary were more than ready to get married. But there was a problem. Several hundred miles from Grasmere there was another woman who had been calling herself Mrs Wordsworth for the last ten years. Annette Vallon, the third woman in this story, had met Wordsworth when as a hot-blooded young graduate he travelled to France to take a look at the Revolution in action. He met Annette in Orleans. One thing led to another and a couple of months after they met she was pregnant. Wordsworth left France before the baby was born, and although he may have planned to return, a few weeks after he came back, France declared war on England. Return to Annette and his newly-born daughter Caroline became impossible, and gradually, his thoughts of France began to fade.

In the spring of 1802, Wordsworth realised that he just couldn’t get married to Mary without first going to France to speak with Annette face to face. Thanks to a recent peace treaty with the French, this was, for the first time in a decade, actually possible. On the 9th of July, William left Grasmere for London on his way to Calais. As ever, he wasn’t travelling on his own. His companion was his sister, Dorothy.

Westminster Bridge Wordsworth had both enjoyed and suffered the maelstrom of London on a number of occasions before 1802, and his poetic responses sum up the sensory overload that the capital made on his Lakelander sensibility: “…the quick dance / Of colours, lights and forms; the Babel din; / The endless stream of men, and moving things, … / The comers and the goers face to face, Face after face …” This was the city in which William and Dorothy found themselves, when early on the morning of July 31st, 1802, they arrived at Charing Cross to catch a stagecoach for Dover. The Wordsworths had taken their seats on the top of the carriage, quite possibly because they were cheaper, and this meant that they were able to see over the bridge’s parapet, which at the time was much higher than it is today. As they crossed over Westminster Bridge, they were both enraptured by the view, which more than likely remained their topic of conversation as the coach carried on towards Dover. When Dorothy wrote about their trip to France some months later, her journal seems to pause for a moment to pay special attention to the view from the bridge.

It was a beautiful morning. The city, St Paul’s, with the river and a multitude of little boats, made a most beautiful sight as we crossed Westminster Bridge. The houses were not overhung by their cloud of smoke and they were spread out endlessly, yet the sun shone so brightly with such a pure light that there was even something like the purity of nature’s own grand spectacles.

This entry from Dorothy’s journal clearly shares William’s images and words, and we can only imagine that it was their conversation on the bridge that morning which brought the poem to life.

View of Thames painting The basic experience that Wordsworth is describing and is making us relive in this poem is one of course that all of us experience all the time in cities. When you’re on one side of the river, and you’re in those very close horizons of the streets, and you’ve got buildings all around you, you’ve got a lot of noise and activity; and then you step out onto the bridge, and you walk across the bridge, and then suddenly there’s this space in the air, you haven’t got buildings in front of your eyes. You’ve got the river there.

The movement of the poem is very simple, from that opening line of astonished statement through to that sense of a very deep calmness. But across that movement the poem is charged crucially by a sense of brevity, a brevity that explains the bridge itself; then there is the brevity of the form, the sonnet, which gives the poem its potency, its power. Even in the very first line: “EARTH has not anything to show more fair” the weight on that first syllable is total; imagine how much weaker it would have been had he said “the world” and we didn’t have that weight until the second syllable. That continues onto the second line when he says, “Dull would he be off soul who could pass by.” Who would want to be thought of as dull of soul? None of us, so we stay with the poet and we linger. And then again, the close of the poem is broken up with this quite surprising apostrophe - “Dear God!” – before it falls down to a sense of beautiful calm - “the very houses seem asleep; / And all that mighty heart is lying still!

It’s a sublime vision of London, in which the city becomes a sleeping, breathing, organic creature. Simon Armitage, a poet who shares Owen Sheer’s fascination for this poem, says that that dramatic first sentence, , might lead one to believe the poem was about a mountain or a lake or some such artefact of splendid nature. Instead, one is startled to find that the poem is about London; surely an antithesis of Wordsworth? But further readings reveal that there can be no beauty or sense of miracle in London (or in any city, for that matter) without the presence of nature. The city is transfigured by the morning sun. Not only that, the city is framed as well. There’s a phrase about being open to the fields and the sunlight … every part of the city has a border of nature: the sky, the sun, the fields, the river.

The evening of the day the Wordsworths crossed Westminster Bridge, they took a boat over to Calais. They arrived early next morning. William went ashore and met Annette almost immediately. In 1802, Calais was no more glamorous a town than it is today, but it must have been fascinating to visit after a decade of strife between France and England. Dorothy’s journal is quite detailed about some of their time here. She complains about the bad smells in her lodging, she waxes lyrical about the phosphorescence in the sea. She is frustratingly quiet on the things we really want to know about: what was it like for William and Annette to see one another again? was there still any spark? how was it for William to meet his nine-year-old daughter for the first time in his life? His already imperfect French would have been fairly rusty, so how did they even manage to talk to each other?

What we do know is that they spent a lot of time together on the beach. “We walked by the sea shore almost every evening with Annette and Caroline, or William and I alone. I had a bad cold and could not bathe at once, but William did.” This beach holiday lasted a whole month, and while there’s no surviving record, William and Annette obviously reached some kind of agreement which allowed him to marry with a clear conscience.

Calais Beach That month also afforded William plenty of time for writing poetry. He loved to form his poems while he was walking, ideally on uninterrupted ground so that his rhythms and thoughts were not disturbed. So the impressive expanse of the Calais beach would have been the perfect place for him to compose, especially because the dozen or so poems he wrote over that month were all sonnets, 14 lines, tightly packed, and easy to hold in the mind as he strode along the sands.

Once again, Dorothy had a crucial hand in this. She had been reading the sonnets of the great John Milton to her brother. It was these that prompted him to experiment with the sonnet himself. In one fantastic poem, a counterpoint to his sonnet about the dawn in London, he tenderly addresses his daughter Caroline.
It Is A Beauteous Evening, Calm and Free (William Wordsworth)
It is a beauteous evening, calm and free,
The holy time is quiet as a Nun
Breathless with adoration; the broad sun
Is sinking down in its tranquillity;
The gentleness of heaven broods o'er the Sea:
Listen! the mighty Being is awake,
And doth with his eternal motion make
A sound like thunder--everlastingly.
Dear Child! dear Girl! that walkest with me here,
If thou appear untouched by solemn thought,
Thy nature is not therefore less divine:
Thou liest in Abraham's bosom all the year;
And worship'st at the Temple's inner shrine,
God being with thee when we know it not.

It’s curious that this unique and brief reference to the poet’s daughter, although fond, seems strangely detached, especially when compared to the passion that Wordsworth expresses about London. That summer of 1802, he appears to have focussed his energy on refining his skills as a sonneteer. The sonnets he wrote all are impressive, and they provide an important context for the sonnet on Westminster Bridge. What is really fascinating about the story around the writing of this poem is how it touches on so many exciting elements of Wordsworth. Nowadays his reputation is quite often drawn from the later part of his life, from his Establishment phase, but it should be remembered that he was, in his youth, quite the rebel. He was a father outside of wedlock, he was widely travelled, he was a sympathiser of the French Revolution, and he chose to lead a literary life outside of London. His poem therefore moves between these two places that really formed Wordsworth – the Lake District and the radical revolutionary France that he had known as a young man.

And right in the middle, halfway between those two places, is London. Seen in this context, it is not surprising that the poem, in its own way, is quite radical. As Simon Armitage says, it has been usual in traditional literature to see cities as places of evil intent, filthy, inhuman, murderous places. Wordsworth, though, takes the opposite view, a watershed moment in poetry. Although the poem is sentimental and romantic, it is still a brave poem, especially for Wordsworth (whose sympathies do lie elsewhere) to stand up and say at this moment that this is beauty.

The Vision (Simon Armitage)

The future was a beautiful place, once.
Remember the full-blown balsa-wood town
on public display in the Civic Hall.

The ring-bound sketches, artists’ impressions,
blueprints of smoked glass and tubular steel,
board-game suburbs, modes of transportation
like fairground rides or executive toys.
Cities like dreams, cantilevered by light.
And people like us at the bottle-bank
next to the cycle-path, or dog-walking
over tended strips of fuzzy-felt grass,
or motoring home in electric cars,
model drivers. Or after the late show -
strolling the boulevard. They were the plans,
all underwritten in the neat left-hand
of architects - a true, legible script.
I pulled that future out of the north wind
at the landfill site, stamped with today’s date,
riding the air with other such futures,
all unlived in and now fully extinct.

From London, the Wordsworths headed back north, where William finally got to marry Mary. He brought his new bride back to Grasmere where they lived for the rest of their lives, eventually ending up at the grand Victorian villa in Rydal Mount, barely twenty minutes’ walk away from Dove Cottage. Dorothy lived with his brother and sister-in-law for the rest of her life, in what was a fairly unusual but remarkably successful domestic arrangement. And the third woman from that summer of 1802, Annette, and her daughter Caroline, as far as we know, only met Wordsworth one more time, while he was on a holiday in Paris with his family twenty years later, by which point, he and Mary had three teenage children of their own.

In the end, we have no idea how Wordsworth responded to the complex situation he found himself in that fateful summer, meeting his mistress and a daughter for the first time on the eve of his marriage to Mary. But what we do know is that as a result of that journey, Wordsworth, our great poet of nature, wrote one of the most euphoric poems about a city in the English language. The resonance of the poem has strengthened over time. As London becomes more built up, as we find ourselves more and more surrounded and dwarfed by the buildings around us, the experience that the poem describes of the great sense of relief that washes over us as we cross the Thames has over the years become not less but more powerful.

Written and Narrated by Owen Sheers: A Poet’s Guide to Britain, BBC Four.