Howard Jacobson is seriously upset about train travel in Britain. I don't blame him - it is expensive and erratic. What gets his goat, however, is the fall in the quality of the food on board:
The food on trains is once again disgusting. In the last days of British Rail, catering underwent a revolution. I recall an exquisite poached salmon sandwich with rocket and dill sauce "designed" by Clement Freud. To accompany it you could buy wine "selected" by Fay Weldon. Those were the Culture Years. Then we went private and it was back to the breakfast bap designed by Fred West. That's when they have any food other than confectionery at all. Ten minutes out of Edinburgh, on the way back to London, I went to see what was in the shop. "Twix, Mars, Snickers, Kit Kat..."
"No sandwiches?" I politely enquired.
"Don't talk to me in that tone of voice", the onboard shop assistant said.
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